Gone are the days when sellers mistake RV inspection as solely for buyers. Now, sellers know that an RV inspection is the most crucial asset to the selling process because it minimizes time-wasting back & forth negotiations and answering the same questions over and over. Instead, with a pre-sale inspection under your belt, you have a definite Actual Cost Value (ACV) and can say with certainty that your RV is in great condition OR be able to address upfront any issues with a buyer. The less see-sawing you have to do with potential buyers, the quicker you can close the deal and get the profit you deserve.
With me as your inspector, I can help pave you a direct route to profit so you can sell with confidence from a place of certainty, knowledge and excitement. Even more, I have 38 years of expertise in RV Service, Sales, Repair, Maintenance & Rebuilding. In a nutshell, I can advise you the most successful RV sales strategies where you can earn the maximum profit and ultimately return the favor upon you in the selling process.
What will you check during the inspection?
During my thorough inspection, I will spend hours shaking down the RV from roof to tires to bolts, wire and everything in between. Let’s break it down further:
Inspection add-ons (and yes, they are worth it!)
How much will an inspection cost?
During your complimentary Zoom call with me, I will provide a risk-free, zero-obligation quote to you and answer all your inspection-related questions. Inspection costs vary depending on the size of your RV and any RV Inspection Add-Ons chosen.
How to get started
Please call (239) 768-2410 or email firstname.lastname@example.org and if you’d like to have a complimentary Zoom video call, that will be promptly coordinated for you. On this call, you and I will virtually meet face to face to answer all your inspection-related questions and obtain a free quote for your Pre-Sale RV Inspection.
Advanced seller tips
Bank financing and pricing yourself out of the market: Banks will finance the Wholesale price just like insurance, they don’t finance the retail amount when you see in NADA online, setting the price to high or adding sentimental value to it will simply just sit, people will look, compare and that’s about it, Have you ever been fishing? If your bait is at the top you wont get any bites, dropping it to the middle you might get some nibbles, but at the bottom is where the fish are, we all want as much as we can get, but lets do some math, if you take the NADA suggested list price, no one will pay that unless Elvis slept in it, most make the mistake of adding in all the additional equipment, unless you actually added something specific like a secondary air conditioner or an additional awning or had it custom built, there is no need to select those items. Now if the RV is more than 2+ years old those extra items you thought added value to the sale price can be valued as yard sale material, I can assure you it won’t add value, and the bank will not finance it! They’re worth nothing especially if the person could care less about the so-called upgrade.
Let’s take this Motor home that’s for sale we’ll take the Suggested NADA retail price of 341,995 and times that by 75%, which comes out to $255,750 the bank will finance the low retail price of $226.400 so that means your down payment needs to be $17,000. Pricing your vehicle to high means the buyer will need a bigger down payment, and that’s when they walk. Your sale price should fall in between the low retail and average retail. Now you’re probably thinking, “I have looked and I see units just like mine selling for a whole lot more.” Let me ask you: how long they have been on the market? A thing to consider is your current monthly payment, how many months do you want to keep paying?
Suggested list $341,995
Average Retail $272,750
Low retail $226,400
My suggested selling price 255,750
Buyers’ Down payment $17000
We’ve all heard that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure:
Let’s say your employed: the first line out of your pay check is taxes, you bought the RV and was taxed again, (Yep) taxed twice, the you financed it, drove it off the lot and loss 30% in value, and to make matters worse, you financed the sales tax… along with everything else, that day will come when it’s time to sell it, and like a Rent a Center you won’t believe how much that TV cost you 4 years later, and what was the interest rate? … You need to know the numbers. Besides the fact when the dealer gets your interest rate back from the bank and they raise it to a higher amount (This is called bank participation) the bank gives them money for ripping you off. And raising your tiers, the bank says we can do it for 5.75%, the dealer comes back and tells you it will be 6.75%, that’s one whole tier. The numbers tell a story, and this is exactly how to lose at the money game- Because the road to debt is paved with discounts!